(you need to broaden your face)
wrong collar: narrow spread pointed collar b/c it makes your face look even thinner
right collar: widespread collar b/c it it evens out your face
(you need to lengthen your face)
wrong collar: wide-spread collar b/c it’ll make your head look larger
right collar: pointed or narrow spread collar b/c it makes your face look thinner
(you need to make your head appear smaller)
wrong collar: pointed or narrow spread collar b/c it’ll make your head look even bigger
right collar: wide-spread or cut-away collar b/c make your head look normal, lol.
(you need to make your head appear bigger)
wrong collar: wide-spread collar b/c it’ll make your head look even smaller.
right collar: medium spread
(you need to shorten your neck)
wrong collar: pointed collar b/c it accentuates the length of your neck.
right collar: medium spread or wide spread collar b/c it’ll give your face balance.
(you need to lengthen your neck)
wrong collar: short or cutaway collar
right collar: narrow pointed collar b/c it’ll lengthen your neck
Note: It was hard to find good picture examples on the internet, so it took awhile to create pictures etc etc, and some of the pictures aren't exactly of "big" men, but they give you the idea. I'll try to visit a store with one of my big and or tall friends to show more precise pictures.
Like I've told many who have emailed me about the issue of finding clothes that fit their physique- the first thing you should do is find someone famous, who is about your size, and has a pretty good sense of style. For the tall you may want to use LeBron James, Will Smith, or Tom Brady as examples. For big guys you may want to use men like Cedric the Entertainer, Michael Knight (from Project Runway), or Joey Fatone (how he dresses more recently).
And it's also very very very important that you guys try clothes on– I know it's probably a pain in the ass, but it's a necessary evil if you want to look your best. I also suggest that you plan your shopping trips– go on a day like Tuesday or Wednesday… maybe even a Monday- on days that are slow so that the salespeople will pay more attention to you. Those are the days that they're in a more relaxed mood as well, so they're more friendly and chill oppose to being up-tight and slightly stressed. Which equals them being more willing to kind of act as your personal shopper, stores like Nordstrom are perfect for this treatment.
Styles to focus on: cardigans, button-ups, dark denim jeans, vest, jackets, suits with side vents, layers, dark colors, pleated pants (no flat fronts unless well tailored), the combination of a light button up or polo and dark sweater or cardigan- gives the allusion of slimmer, and the mixture of textures to give your body a better proportion.
For Suits: always always always get suits with side vents and pants with pleats. Vented jackets gives you room and makes your rear look smaller- this is especially important for men with wide hips. It's not a pleasant sight to see men with suit jackets on and its hugging their backfat. Pleated pants give your thighs more room and makes your body more proportionate. Flat front pants are okay if you are moderately thick and your stomach is relatively small (it may have a slightly slimming effect). You have to invest in suits with vents and you have to get them tailored- its sooooo worth it. Your figure its not regular size so you can NOT just wear clothing, mainly formal wear like suits, straight off the rack.
For Big Hips: if you hold most of your weight on the bottom half of your body, there are a couple of things you can do to help balance your shape. Wear these combinations: dark solid bottoms with patterned, dark bottoms with textured tops. The textured and patterned tops will even out your proportion and re-focus the eye to your top area, taking away the attention from your hips. Wear suits with vents (look at the suit area for more information).
For Big Stomachs: You basically do the opposite of the men with big hips… you wear combinations of dark solid tops and textured bottoms (like corduroy) or light bottoms (like khakis).
Styles to Focus on: vests, cardigans, flat front pants (mainly for tall slim guys), layers, patterned button ups, pin-stripes (thin vertical stripes) shirts– this elongates your torso giving you a more balanced look, bright colored tops and dark bottoms will also elongate the torso.
Like I said you don't really have a real issue, it's just more of a tailoring thing. But there are some things you may need to note– some tall guys have really long legs and short torsos, others have torsos that are too long and aren't as proportional to their legs. You just have to make sure your proportions are right- shirts and jackets shouldn't be too short or too long.
1. dark denim jeans
2. dark suit- (navy or black)
3. dark cardigan (navy, chocolate brown, burgundy)
4. white dress shirt
5. khakis (pleated for big guys, flat front for tall guys)
6. dark solid quality vest (like Ralph Lauren)- preferably 2 button up and pullover 7. sport coat/blazer (neutral color)
Specific TRENDS for Big Men: Preppy/Classically Simple Look, Jacket Fanatic
Specific TRENDS for Tall Men: Plaid, Preppy/Classically Simple, Jacket Fanatic, pretty much anything- just get it tailored.
Specific STORES for Big & Tall Men: Most stores have a big and tall section, and you should always begin in the big and tall sections if possible. Gap, Ralph Lauren, Old Navy, Casual XL (carries Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Levis), I found an online store for really big men: www.torrebigandtall.com. But you guys can virtually shop anywhere you just have to get it tailored.
Okay, I think the guide if complete for now. If you have more questions leave comments or send us an email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Cindy at THE URBAN GENTLEMAN
To Get The Look: braces (suspenders), boots, jeans, flat front khakis, flannel jackets, khaki blazers, vests, corduroy pants, and clothing that reminds you of “the working man” throughout the early 1900’s.
Designers for the Look: D&G, Adam Kimmel, Z Zegna, Club Monaco/J.Crew
Urban Gent Comments: Very doable, very cool. This style is better for someone who exudes confidence… because not everybody can pull off seemingly wearing the same thing a few days in row.
To Get The Look: very slightly fitted graphic tees, denim jeans, sneakers/trainers, trendy book bag, wayfarer shades, bright colored “saggy skinny” jeans, converse, aviators, vans, fitted hats
Urban Gent Comments: I suggest only buying a few items that fit this trend because it’s not for everyone. Maybe a jacket and a scarf…
To Get The Look: jackets w/ fur collars, heavy sweaters, bright colored scarves, vest, fall colored suede pants, and any type clothing that makes you think “Russian Empire”
Designers for the Look: Ermenegildo Zegna,Gucci, D-squared
To Get The Look: dark denim, bright colored shirts, colored fitted jeans, v-neck shirts, gold jewelry, pumas, jordans, thrift store finds, blazers, sandel-oxfords, vest, fanny pack/book bag
Designers for the look: American Apparel, Gap, LRG, Creative Reaction
This look builds upon the preppy look that has swept our nation by storm. But instead of being so stereotypically preppy this new trend focuses on the idea that “less is more”. The 1950’s is the era the emulates this look with perfection.
Urban Gent Comments: This is one of my favorite fall fashion trends. If you follow it you will certainly be the cleanest lad on the block. The trend is also great because the clothing is classic and will never go out of style.
To Get The Look: trousers, blue & white collar shirts (w/ collar stays), heather-grey coloured clothing, lace-up dress shoes, pea coats, trench-coats, eye-glasses, tie-clips, neutral colored ties (regular, skinny, and bow-ties), and anything that looks like it would be worn on the set of Happy Days or The Great Debaters.
Designers for the look: Ralph Lauren, Junya Watanabe, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, DKNY
Designers for the look: Gucci, D&G, Dr.Romanelli
Best Designer for this seasons Trends: Dsquared
Designers Dean and Dan do the best job of combining all of
the seasons trends from the “Russian Look” to
“The Jacket Fanatic” to “The Blue Collar Worker”.
He’s young, fresh, and cool. Hip-hop singer Chris Brown does the best job of displaying this season’s trends when on and off the red-carpet.
1. Arab Scarf- yes, it’s still in.
2. Glasses– you MUST have the ability to look intellectual at a moment’s notice.
3. Boldly Colored Fitted Jeans– Lil’Weezy, Chris Brown, Kanye West- they ALL rock em
4. Unique Jacket– it makes getting ready so easy- jeans, t-shirt, and a superTight jacket.
5. Gold Jewelry– if you still haven’t gotten a gold watch or gold chain you need to cop one.
(side note: Gaudy gold is slightly played, so your gold jewelry shouldn’t look costume)
*Exclusive Urban Gentleman Trends
The Urban Gentleman