Perry Ellis, NYFWM
By day 4, we're all tired… the models are happy because they can eat again, but the surveyors of the clothing they wear? Well, we've been lugging around our Macbooks and SLRs for too many days. It's all good though, we're troopers… let's do this!
The first show was unexpectedly, sorta… perfect. Platform 1 was filled to the rim, whoever setup the Perry Ellis runway maximized seating allowing this to be the largest turnout of any show at NYFWM. Hundreds looked to be seating and hundreds upon hundreds more standing… smart move.
A SUPER packed house for Perry Ellis and designer Michael Maccari
I found myself sitting next to a long time close friend of Perry Ellis Creative Director, Michael Maccari. She worked with him at Polo Ralph Lauren, J.Crew, and Calvin Klein. As the show began and the looks rolled out both of us were smiling from ear to ear… Maccari did an outstanding job. He gave us exactly what a fashion designer should- a foundation of staples beautifully tailored. Questionable trends, such as men in sandals and leggings, were integrated in a such a way that even the most uninterested unfashionable man would be moved to give it a try. A broad variety of textiles and textures – intricately detailed sweaters, translucent sheers, vibrant linens… there was just no stopping it. Perry oh Perry, or should I say Maccari oh Maccari. Perry Ellis, an underdog to some, was a clear winner at NYFWM. Round of applause.
The Amazon.com sponsored hallways of New York Fashion Week Mens
While most of us had several more shows to attend, we skipped "school" for a bit, socialized in the hallways, then headed over to the Bloomies stand for food (more like light snacks). All the cliques met up: the preps, the jocks, the emos of Men's Fashion Week NY. Atlanta, Houston, St.Louis, Miami, and of course lots and lots of NYC reps were in the mix. I managed to confirm my attendance to Liberty Fairs then we UBERed over to Chelsea Market for a real lunch.
Tortoise shell, watches, and beards
Summer black, with Skeleton stitched velvet slippers
The final day, we see both pair of Yeezys
The first New York Fashion Week Mens was a success. If I had to grade it, A+ in my book. Can't wait to do it again next year!
Most Creative Show: Public School
Best Dressed: Victor Cruz
Most Popular Show: Greg Lauren
Most Improved Show: Perry Ellis
Check out other shows such as John Varvatos, John Elliot, Hickey Freeman, and more Men's Fashion Week Street Style on our Facebook page this week.
Finally, here's the Men's Spring Summer 2012 Fashion Style Trend Guide, Part I.
My focus or want for the Spring Summer 2012 trends is 'something new', or the same but remixed. Meaning, some of this ish is getting stale. Okay okay not completely stale, but just redundant. For example, I've been killing Spicy Grilled Salmon Sushi lately, eating it damn near every day. Then one day I had it, and it just wasn't as good– flavors were there, they made it right in front of me so it was fresh, but my belly just wasn't rejoicing the same way it usually does. My taste-buds weren't savoring the flavors like usual, so I had to space out my sushi dining to every 3-4 days or so, allowing me to appreciate and savor it more. That's sorta what we have to do with some of the Mad Men 60's type style… we gotta pull back so that it can be savored.
There are a couple of particular trends that I'm excited about focusing on this year… two in particular one main one for spring/summer and another for fall/winter. I'll let you know what those are later. For now, in usual Urban Gentleman Style Guide form, check out some of the main Spring Summer 2012 the trends below:
Above: Iceberg, Frank Morello, Canali
Spring's Got the Blues. As usual right. Designers love to blue up their spring collections, so it's no different this year. From the schoolyard royal blue to classic navy to the airiest sky blue, all hues of blue are seen this season.
Above: General Idea, D&G, Louis Vuitton
Pattern Me Crazy. In keeping with a trend that we'll get into later this season, there's the overall trend of patterns. Stripes, flowers, native, camouflage, plaid, even polka dots and animal prints (in moderation). Options options options, you have to love that men have that now, not just options in colors or fits, but in patterns– schweeet!
Above: Etro, Yigel Azrouel, Giorgio Armani
The Formal Utilitarian. Another of my favorite trends is the mixing of formal wear with sportswear, in particular utilitarian gear. It's something that we saw alot of on the streets of Italy last year during Fall/Winter so why not bring it into the Spring. Back in the day, the mixing of casual and formal was throwing on a pair of sneakers with a suit, we've graduated from such simplicity and take things to a different place. Now it's throwing on a parka with that dress shirt, dress paints and tie, refined leather hard-bottoms worn with rolled-up cargo pants, rugged lace-up boots worn with double-breasted blazers.
Above: Kanye West, Balmain (Spring/Summer), David Beckham
The Basic White. Going all black has been in trend for awhile, now the opposite befalls us. Lately more and more celebrities have been keeping it simple, with high-dollar simple white t-shirts and white button downs. While some are going pattern crazy other's opt for the opposite, and you just gotta respect it… you just do.
Above: Calvin Klein, Versace, Thierry Mugler, Richard Chair
Bright & Bold. Designers and retailers alike really want us to pop into spring with some color– the commercials are relentless. While wearing bold and bright colors may seem like more of a girl thing to some, boys can do it to. I just implore you to do it in a more studious and conscious way. Don't just throw on a bunch of colors, mix a bold color with a neutral. Make your bold or bright color unexpected… all navy suit, with bright orange brogues -or- neutral base (top and bottom) with a bright colored jacket.
Above: Ferragamo, Giorgio Armani, Billy Reid
Back to Easy Fit. I'm such an advocate of well-fitting tailored clothes, but the looser fits designers are re-introducing are secretly making me happy. Why? B/c some people don't know the difference between tailored and too damn tight… if your junk is very visibly exposed maybe rethink it, unless you're a rock star (in real life or in your mind– can't hate on the dreamers). And if you're sagging with too skinny jeans, you really gotta rethink some things… this is a real issue :-/ So going back to looser fits may just be what the people need. Looser fitting more airy silhouettes are making its way back to retail thanks to designers efforts over the past few seasons.
More Spring Summer 2012 Trends:
(Many of the same ole oldies but goodies are still into play, mixed with newer or reemerging trends we're growing to love)
– Sockless. Same trend, different season.
Check out Part II of the Men's Spring Summer Fashion Style Trend Guide, later this week and next, to "Get the Look".
Most of you know chambray is an essential. But we're taking it up a notch this Spring/Summer and taking chambray to our shoes, jackets, and accessories. (Random Fact: Though seemingly so American, chambray was actually originated in Cambria, France– which is also where it gets its name from; chambray is also known as cambric).
Vintage Turner Field (Georgia, U.S.A) postcard; Nantucket, MA; Cambrai, France
I think I'll deem this the easiest Spring/Summer 2011 trend to achieve, since all it calls for is black… all black everything. But of course we want to keep things better than the average over here at The Urban Gentlemen so when we rock this trend we prefer to use various shades and textures of black. Example: faded black shirt, rich black chinos, a black knit sweater, black leather braided belt, and grey/black oxfords.
Get the Look…
Get the Accessories…
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The world of men's fashion has really matured over these past few years, and the trends certainly reflect that. Baggy to extra-skinny to "fits just right", no accessories to over accessorized to "masculinely accessorized just the right amount", but best of all I feel like we've finally managed to combine the styles of different cultures and decades to create a sort of modern day celebration of men's fashion. And this season's trends continues this celebration…
Presenting The Official Men's Spring Summer 2011
Fashion, Trends, & Style Guide.
Insouciant Prep. We've been internationally prepping it out for a minute, and now it's just our lifestyle so we can be more relaxed with it. You don't have to be bow-tied, striped socked, oxfords with matching vest and pocket squared-up for every single look. Keep it simple– button down with rolled up sleeves, shorts with a print of some sort, and deck shoes or loafers worn sockless.
Dolce and Gabanna
Summer Black. Even more consistent than white, designers flooded their Spring Summer 2011 shows with black. Simon Spurr, John Varvatos, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Y-3, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Jeremy Scott and the list goes on. So when you're feeling "New York" or just a little moody– as Jay-Z said, opt for "all black everything", black shirt, black shorts, all black everything.
Get the Look: SUMMER BLACK look book, HERE.
City Refined. It's simple classic urban gentleman type dress, but adapted to the summer sun. Basically being spiffy and immaculately well-groomed wherever you go. Casually wearing well-tailored suits more than the average guy, loafers and oxfords even in casual settings. Double breasted blazers and crew neck shirts, paired with trousers that show a little ankle and shoes that compliment.
Native Inspiration. Whether we're talking cowboys and indians or Aztec, Mayan, and Inca civilization being inspired by the natives of North, Central, and South America is probably my favorite trend of the summer. The fashion elite, both male and female, have made native prints their new plaid. And because of its lack of being in many designers collections (for men) and the sheer fact that many folk just don't know how to coordinate native prints, you won't see everyone walking around in it (which is a bonus). The best way to approach this trend is to keep it simple by focusing on collecting specific native pieces– a vintage Navajo print blazer, an Aztec patterned rucksack, even a bolo tie.
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