This weeks featured
Local Urban Gentleman is Kendrack Lewis. The moment I opened Kendrack’s submission I was sold. His style is exactly what I envisioned when I initially created The Urban Gentleman– polished, preppy, fallaciously easy… classic yet modern. I implore you all to take a few notes from one of the best dressed educators in Texas
Presenting Kendrack Lewis…
I love this look because it can be worn in so many ways.
Don’t like the bow-tie? You could take it off and undo a few buttons.
Not a fan of the lime green? Wear light blue.
This look can be re-arranged and re-styled into something for any guy.
I really like the clean white pants (perfect for spring/summer)
with the white loafers worn sockless.
And I feel all well dressed gentleman should own atleast
one classic navy blazer with gold buttons
Name: Kendrack Lewis
Age: 25
Location: Houston, TX
Occupation: 7th Grade Teacher/ MPA Graduate Student
Favorite Quote: “If you look good, you’ll feel good”
Style Icons: Kanye West, John Legend , Brad Pitt and George Clooney
Favorite Brands (up to 3): Zara, Express and
Polo
Favorite Store: Goodwill ( Any thrift store)
Favorite Piece of clothing: Oxford Dress Shirt
bow-tie or tie: Bow-tie
flat front or pleated pants: Flat front
Shades, hat, or scarf: Shades
Description of favorite accessory: A very slim and sleek watch “Skagen” that’s timeless and perfect for any occasion.
Ultimate career/life goal: To become a university professor and U.S. Senator
Favorite Book: Dreams From My Father
Hobbies: Basketball, Reading & Thrift store shopping
Grooming product of choice: Chrome by Azzaro & Mania by Armani
Take note of the layering and the color choices.
On the left, he has a simple black to white color palette and uses the red bow-tie for a splash of color. On the right, a charming chocolate and pink color palette. In both he plays with textures- from tweed to velor and does a great job creating a modernly dapper look.
1. How would you describe your style? A classic approach to a contemporary frame! I like to let my style speak for itself because the first impression is the last impression.
2. How did you become so stylish? Where did it come from or who inspired it? I wanted to break away from the normal everyday mainstream trends and fads, so I began redefining what my attire should look like. I am inspired by those who know every occasion presents an opportunity to fashionably express themselves.
I adore this ensemble because it shows how easy it is to have great style.
He pairs a simple navy jacket and pants with a white v-neck and leather moccasins- creating a very nice comfortable easy-going look.
3. What advice would you give someone trying to find their personal style? Rock what makes you feel comfortable! If you don’t believe in it no one else will!
4. What’s the best clothing advice you ever received? Wear your size !!! Not two sizes bigger, clothes are designed to fit you not hang off you!!!
Kendrack is also immaculately groomed- its very important to keep your hair (including facial hair) cut, trimmed, or styled. Maintain your skin and complexion by keeping it moisturized.
Are you the next Local Urban Gentleman?Answer the questions above and submit them to
urbangentblog@gmail.com
along with 3 or more stylish pictures.
I was watching an episode of
The Doctors on ABC and one of the topic that came up was “
Manscaping“- which is basically a corny yet cool way to summarize men’s hair removal and
grooming. It seems that
alot of guys have issues with shaving
certain parts, in fear that it decreases masculinity. But as one manly and macho guy learned on the show- shaving and just being well-groomed in general is not only healthier, but it makes you feel better.
The face: Unless you’re going for the “scruffy look”, always keep your facial hairs neatly trimmed.
Breakdown of Facial Hair
- Head Hair: I just say keep it washed, neat, and clean. Maintain your hairstyle.
- Mustache: Keep it trimmed. If you have a mustache be proud of it… remember that episode of Family Guy where Peter had mustache… too funny, here’s a clip.
- Beard: I feel like even if it’s scruffy, make it neatly scruffy… unless you’re trying out for some kind of role in a movie in which you’re playing a bum, or hippie, or mountain man.
- Nose hair: Keep small clippers, nose hair trimmer, or tweezers around to clip away any hairs that are hanging out of your nose.
The body: This is all a matter of personal preference, so opinions on what to keep or not to keep trimmed varies from person to person.
- Chest: I don’t think you should really worry about shaving your chest, unless you’re just extremely hairy. Most guys have the right amount of hair here.
- Arm pits: A guy with no pit hair would seem a bit off to me (unless you play a sport in which you needed to be hairless), but with that said I don’t think you should let it get too out of control. I would suggest mildly trimming your pit hairs down maybe about twice a year… it just all depends on how much pit hair you grow and how fast it grows back.
- Groin: I won’t even pity paddle around this… I think your private hairs should be trimmed and neat. Dr. Drew Ordon on The Doctors Show said it best, “Treat that area like a frame and the picture should fit in the frame.” Translation: Don’t have a bunch of wild bushy hair growing down there. It’s alot better for you and your partner if you keep that area clean and tidy. Some people may go as far as to cut it all off, but that may be too extreme for some and too feminine for others.
- Legs/Arms: Don’t shave your legs or arms… unless you’re just into that sort of thing.
- Back: I have never personally seen a man with back hair (close friends, relatives, I’ve seen it on TV though), but some guys do have it… actually, many guys have it. And if you fall into that category feel free to give tips on how to maintain back hair. I would propose that if you like it then keep it, if not, then consider getting it waxed or maybe even undergo laser hair removal.
- The…. Rear: I know some of you may be thinking “huh?”. But I actually got in a sort of weird conversation with one of my friends the other day about this. We were on the phone talking and I asked what he was doing, he replied “shaving”… then he went on to tell me he was shaving his butt… Lol… I found it funny. But anyway, he told me that he was doing it for sanitary purposes because his hairs were just too long <3>… and I’ll just end that right there. So if you need to do it, then please by all means- trim your butt hair! lol…
——–
Ways to remove the hair
There are many options to removing your unwanted hair….
Classics: Shaver and Razor
Alternatives: Waxing, Laser Hair Removal, etc.
Please note: Most African-American males have to put more care into shaving. Here’s some shaving advice for African-American males… (this mainly is for facial hair).
- Applying a shaving lotion after shaving will reduce the appearance of redness. This is also great for women after shaving legs, bikini lines and underarms.
- Be sure to always use a clean blade when shaving with a razor. This can be best achieved by only using new blades and discarding ones that have been previously used three or more times.
- If you use an electric razor, replace the rotary blades or foil after a few months. Of course if you’re required to shave daily, you may have to replace them sooner. This can be a headache since many rotary blade components cost more than half of what the entire razor is worth.
- While shaving with a handheld razor, always shave in the direction of hair growth. Most hair on men’s faces, slant downward, so be sure to shave in that direction. This is also important around the neck areas since shaving against the grain is one of the main causes of pointy, sharp hairs that can burrow back into the skin.
- Don’t stretch your skin while shaving. Pulling your cheeks, chin or neck while shaving in order to get a closer shave, can cause darkness and discoloration of underlying skin tissue. This is especially true for light and fair-skinned Black men who have dark, prominently textured hair.
- Watch what you eat. A lot of skin irritations may subside if certain foods are avoided. Fatty foods, foods containing oils, cholesterol and sodium, can make your skin more susceptible to damage while shaving.
- Give up on razors and use a depilatory. Depilatories work well on most skin, but not on all. They can remove facial hair in a matter of minutes, but just like blade shaving, can cause a bit of irritation and redness. Be careful not to use alcohol-based aftershaves or creams immediately after using a depilatory. Mixing the two is like throwing flames onto your face.
- Grow a beard. This may not be the best solution for those required to shave daily, such as the military and other business professions. But if you can swing it, why not? You will totally eliminate the razor bump worries and ingrown hair issues. Even better, you can get rid of those sharp blades!
More advice (some tips may repeat).
• Always use a sharp razor blade and discard old blades after 4-5 uses. You might think this is excessive, but dull blades force black men to go over the same area of skin again and again, increasing the chances of irritation and improperly cutting hair. This goes for electric razors, too: replace the blades after every few months of use.
• Reduce your number of shaves by shaving every other day. Giving the skin time to heal will allow hairs to grow straight through the skin’s surface, without forcing too-short hairs back into the skin. Frequent shaving too close to the skin will trap hairs inside the follicles.
• Exfoliate! Exfoliating with a gentle scrub removes the top layer of dead cells and allows hairs to grow out more easily. It also helps soften skin, clears pores and evens out patchy skin tones.
• Many African-American men benefit from using a single-blade razor, or a DE razor. One doctor said, “I highly dissuade patients who suffer from razor bumps from using triple or quadruple blade razor systems. The closer the shave, the worse the razor bumps will be.”
• Always shave in the direction of hair growth. While shaving upward seems to give a closer shave, shaving in the hair’s direction reduces irritation and the likelihood of hairs growing back into the skin. Don’t pull skin taut when shaving since this can also cause ingrown hairs to form.
• Soften hairs before shaving by massaging warm water into the beard area and then applying a professional-grade, highly-lubricating shave creme. Allow it to sit on the face for a minute or two to completely coat hairs before shaving.
• Follow a shave with an after-shave solution that contains hydrating ingredients like aloe, witch hazel and tea tree extract like a post-shave repair creme to cut down on redness and discomfort. Stay away from products that contain alcohol since this can dry skin out and provoke an ashy appearance in black skin.
• Resist the urge to simply pluck ingrown hairs out. A new hair will just grow again, and you’ll be facing the same exact problem.
• Most importantly, take your time when shaving. Everyone’s been guilty of the 30-second shave on Monday morning, but shaving slowly and with care can dramatically reduce nicks, cuts and abrasions that can aggravate razor bumps.
• If you find that you are suffering from severe cases of inflammation or razor bumps, talk to your doctor or dermatologist. You may be a candidate for electrolysis (a low-level current is used to destroy follicles) or skin depilatories (chemical creams that soften and minimize growth).tips via menscience and mybrotha
Don’t forget to moisturize as well- especially in the winter.
Early last month I received an email from a gentleman in London who needed help choosing his college wardrobe. He had a budget of 500 pounds, which equals to about $1000 (if you round up) and he wanted to know what to buy. I started and stopped my reply to his email several times- changing the way I organized my suggestions each time, but now… almost a month later I have finished the email. And I’ve tailored it to be an article for everyone. So, below is a list of suggested items to buy if you’re in need of a new wardrobe. There is also advice on who to use as inspiration and much more.
*I get alot of emails from readers, and quite frankly I’m not able to answer them all in a timely fashion simply because I’m a busy person (sorry guys)... so if you ever email me it may take awhile, a long while:-(.
Side Note: The basic Urban Gentleman look is partially classic/preppy and partially fashionable/trendy. To be an urban gentleman is to be a modern gentleman- a man of style, class, culture, and of course one must have “swag”.
The Wardrobe
There are 3 main sections in a wardrobe:
the core section, defining/signature section, and finishing touches section. And in a wardrobe, you need to be able to mix and match- so all the sections will include pieces that you will use to create a variety of looks and outfits.
The core wardrobe pieces consist of clothing that you absolutely require. These items are timeless and really capture the essence of any well dressed gentleman’s look. You literally can’t live without your core items and they should be a combo of (your) personality and practicality.
The next section or layer of your wardrobe should be 90% of you and your style and 10% trend. Sometimes trends end up being a part of your style and that’s okay. This section of the wardrobe should also include signature items. Basically these are the clothes that really make your look and captures the essence of your personal style.
The third section is all about finishing touches and extras- items that you don’t need, but really want.
Part I: The CORE
+ 2 pair quality dark denim jeans.
Straight, relaxed, or skinny fit and one boot cut ( needed for dress shoes and boots). [$250]
Example: Sevens for All Mankind and Express/Levis (one top quality brand and one good less expensive good quality brand).
+ 1 pair of khakis/chinos/trousers
Flat front or pleated depending on your size. Navy or khaki. [$65]
+ 1 cardigan in a neutral color
Navy, black, or heather gray. [$50]
Example: Ralph Lauren, Lacoste.
+ 3 quality white or black t-shirts
V or Crew neck (whichever you prefer). [$35]
Example: Slight v-neck Calvin Klein or American Apparel.
+ 2 polos – 1 neutral 1 bright
Choose your favorite brand. [$125]
Example: Ralph Lauren and/or Penguin, one black one red.
+ 1 button-up
Any style, color, or brand. It should be one that you really like and it should coordinate with the colors of your other core items. [$55]
Example: 1 Sean John long-sleeve plaid button-up.
(*The shoes you pick for you core are totally up to you, they should reflect your style and they are potentially shoes that you could wear everyday with everything.)
+ 1 pair of casual shoes
Example: navy Vans, black Chucks, white Pumas, brown Sperry boat shoes, neutral colored moccasins, driver, casual oxford-type shoe. [$75]
+ 1 pair of dressier/less-casual shoes
Example: oxfords, wing-tips, mid or ankle boots, dressy pair of drivers, tassel- loafer, slip-on. [$135]
That is your core and it is timeless… meaning all of the above will never go out of style and can easily coordinate with any trend.
With these items you can create a variety of looks:
very casual: slight v-neck tee, dark denim jeans, and moccasins.
everyday living: polo, cardigan, dark denim jeans, chucks.
weekend relaxing: v-neck, cardigan, khakis, boat shoes.
dressier: button-up, cardigan, khakis, boots.
**[The prices above are just estimates that total to $790, but all of the items can be purchased for much less. For example, you can buy all of the above clothing at a store like Express using their monthly coupons and online or in-store deals for around $380: $150 of 2 pair of jeans, $40 for 2 polos, $50 for the cardigan, button up for $30, trousers for $80, and 3 t-shirts for $30. Then you can head over to a site like Nordstrom and look at their "Under $100" shoes and find Kenneth Cole dress shoes for $90, Converse for $30 which total $120. So you get all of the above for $500. ]
Part II: The DEFINING PIECES & SIGNATURES
+ 1 pair of colored skinny/baggy skinny jeans
Red, green, blue, or purple.
Example: LRG, Uniqlo, Levis.
+ 2-4 graphic tees
Choose your favorite type and brand. It should basically fit your overall look. If you have a dressier style then choose tees that would be the “dressed down” version of your look (if that doesn’t work then get a t-shirt from your favorite brand ex: Lacoste tee).
Example: Vintage (go to local vintage and thrift stores), funny, retro, etc.
+ 2 jackets (light coat)
A signature jacket and a neutral yet stylish jacket or light coat. Jackets can really set-off the look, it’s the frosting on a cake- the cake taste good without, but it taste even better with it.
Example: bright colored aviator jacket, vintage jacket, designer jacket like MCM, or sport coat.
+ 4-6 shirts/tops
In the style of you choice.
Examples: plaid button-ups, bright colored graphic tees, etc.- whatever gives you your look.
+ 3 pants/bottoms
In the style of your choice.
Examples: chocolate colored corduroys, light-washed jeans slashed at the knees, black jeans, black flat-front trousers, etc. (again, whatever gives you your look)
+ shoes
Choose a pair of shoes that are really hot to you, they can be sneakers or dress shoes or a hybrid of the two. These should be your “stuntin” shoes, the ones that really stand out and make your look.
Example: Limited edition Creative Reactions, Marc Jacob sneakers, Kanye West Louis Vuitton shoes, or a pair of Supras.
+ accessories
2 scarves, 2 hats (1 fitted, 1 fedora), 2 skinny ties, 1 pair of glasses.
Just like a jacket can be seen as the frosting on a cake, accessories are the sprinkles and toppings- they complete the cake. Choose accessories that enhance your look.
1 of these items should be signature, like signature pair of Oliver Peoples glasses or your signature damier LV bookbag, or a signature skull scarf.
Examples: scarves, glasses, buttons, suspenders/braces, ties, hats, pins, “manbag”. You should own all different types of accessories, but you will have more of one type of accessory depending on your look.
** This is also where you would include your dressy attire. Every man should own atleast one tailored suit in black or navy blue. A suit can cost you anywhere from $200-$2000 depending on where you purchase it.
Part III: The FINISHING TOUCHES
(these are just the extras, most will probably be trend items).
+ trendy coat/jacket
Military or Marching band inspired jacket.
+ sunglasses
Wayfarers or aviators.
Example: Ray-ban, Tom Ford.
+ scarves
Plaid, animal print, or designer logo.
+ jewelry
It’s all about gold jewelry these days, but choose a material and color that fits your wardrobe and style. Examples: one watch and one gold chain.
+unique accessories
Accessories that are different or uncommon to the vast majority.
Example: buttons, broaches, pins… like the lego Dee & Ricky brooches.
+official trend items
Remember the must-haves of 2009.
Velvet, bow ties, and plaid.
+ more basics
Add more basics/core items into wardrobe.
Examples: more solid colored cardigans, polos, and shoes.
So that is the Urban Gentleman Wardrobe list for now. This list is subject to change at anytime, but it’s a good start for any gentleman looking to create or re-vamp his wardrobe.
*Other items not accounted for, but are important:
-underwear, black and brown leather belts, socks.
The Urban Gentleman
______________________________________
More Wardrobe Tid-bits.
+ Best stores for the items above and for men in need of building a wardrobe:
1. Macys/Bloomingdales (if you’re in America)
2. Harvey Nichols/Harrods/ Debenhams (if you’re in the UK)
3. GAP/Heritage 1981/Urban Outfitters
Those are great stores to use if you want to purchase everything in one place. But if you want to save money and want more options then shop from a variety of stores online and in store.
+ Best celebrities to use as inspiration when building a wardrobe:
1. David Beckham
2. Kanye West, Lupe Fiasco, or Pharrell Williams
3. (your best dressed star)
4. Friends of yours whose style you admire.
+Best designers to use for inspiration when building a wardrobe:
1. Ralph Lauren
2. DSqaured
3. Dolce & Gabanna
4. Basically whichever designer you feels captures the essence of your style the best.
I recently realized that it’s all about quality above quantity. This ideal was further instilled in me after watching a Ralph Lauren video a friend shared with me. I remember having a phase in middle and high school in which I would not repeat clothes for 3 or so months at a time. I would write down everything I wore everyday and I would probably only wear an outfit twice each school year- crazy right? If I couldn’t find something to wear I would literally go to the mall and buy a new outfit… when I look back on it I think “how wasteful!!”. That type of mindset left me with tons of clothes and shoes that were nice, but not great… and it left me with tons of trendy items. I pretty much grew out of that mindset a few years ago, but only now do I truly understand the ridiculousness of my mindset at the time. It is, for example, much more important to have one really great quality pair of boots that will last a lifetime (though expensive) oppose to 2 pair of boots that will probably only be good for 2 seasons.
Now more than ever (with this worldwide recession) you really need to tap into your personal style and utilize vintage and thrift stores. If you shop there you can find the same trendy garments, but they’re authentically from the 70s or 80s or 90s and they cost less than half the price. You should mix up your vintage finds with the new clothes you purchase.
You should invest in your one main signature item, if you can afford to.
1. signature watch
2. signature frames
3. signature jacket
4. signature bag
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More Advice.
Be confident in your wardrobe, put thought into it, but don’t over analyze it to confusion. Remember one important Urban Gentleman rule: keep it simple or go hard. (either or only- to keep it stylish). When in doubt on how to coordinate always resort back to the Congolese Sape rules of 3, never match more than 3 colors.
Here’s a few looks random looks, that can help you mix and match your wardrobe items.
1.vintage tee, colored skinny jeans, thick frames, converse, aviator jacket
2. button up, sweater, tie, dark denim, oxfords
3. v neck, cardigan, khaki or cords, vans or lace-ups
4. button up, jacket, skinny tie, tie clip, dark denim, solid trainers or oxfords
Oh and don’t forget, a gentleman is always well-groomed.
1. haircut every 2 weeks, shape-up in between cuts
2. nails should be cut, long nails are for women only.
(this is technically more important than the clothes you wear).