Posts Tagged ‘trends’

Fall Winter Trend: American Workwear + History

Fall Winter Trend: American Workwear + History

Yesterday we gave you The 2010-2011 Men's Fall Fashion Guide featuring 5 trends/looks. Today we focus on one in particular, our personal favorite: American Workwear.

For this trend we followed our own rules… all-american everything, so only American brands. And we took it a step further by mainly using brands that are a lil' dated, aged, yanno, they go back some (in a good way). We pay stylish tribute to those classic hardworking American occupations, with our slightly modern day interpretations.


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Ralph Lauren gingham. Vintage (label-less) corduroy shirt. original Dickies. Converse All-Stars

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vintage Levi's jean shirt. Dickies. Frye footwear.

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Levi Strauss & Co selvedge denim. Granddaddy's closet… yeah we pulled from my grandfather's closet for the double plaid action above. Both shirts are label-less. 

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Bugle Boy. Bill's Khaki's. Frye.

Bugle Boy shirt reads: "Authentic Adventure Garment. Style Resistant. DSA 100-71-C-1435. 100% Dependable Styling. Bugle Boy. Do Not Remove This Label" (seriously though, how dope is that?).

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1958 Fishing License.

Get the Looks:

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The History Behind T.U.G's American Workwear.  Sometimes it's not enough to just say the label, sometimes you just gotta expound… So below we have a brief history of the fashion brands worn above.

Frye. Founded 1863, in New England, by John A.Frye. The Frye company is the oldest continuously operated shoe company in the United States. The boots were worn in the Civil War, by Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders, and by many pioneers in the mid to late 1800's who headed from the East to the West.

Levi Strauss & Co. Founded in 1853, in San Francisco, California by Levi Strauss.  The denim jean was created by tailor Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss. The first jeans were purchased and worn by gold miners during the California Gold Rush. Modern day jeans first appeared  in the 1920s and were mainly worn by cowboys, railroad workers, and lumberjacks in Western America.

Bill's Khaki's. Founded in 1990 by Bill "King of Khaki" Thomas, in Pennsylvania. Once called the "Pants of the Gods" by GQ magazine, Bill's Khaki's draws its inspiration from a pair of WWII-worn khaki's Bill found at an army surplus store when in college. For him those khaki's were much better than the modern day ones. That thought grew into an idea to start a company that authentically captured and celebrated the America ideal. And that idea lead to Bill quitting his advertising job in Chicago and starting Bill's Khaki's.

Dickies. Founded in 1918, in Texas, by C.N. Williamson and E.E. Dickie. First named the U.S Overall Company, it was renamed in 1922 to Williamson-Dickie Manufacturing Company. Once worn by the US armed forces, Dickies is easily one of the most recognizable and classic American workwear brands.

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Bugle Boy Industries. Founded in 1977, in Indiana, by electrical engineer William Mow. He founded the electronics company, Macrodata, in 1970 based on his invention of a unique method that tested large-scaled integrated chips. In 1976 due to an investigation by the SEC he sold his shares and left the company. Although the investigation was dropped, he vowed to stay away from the electronics design industry and found himself designing clothing instead. The company boomed in the 80s and 90s and sales nearly reached $1 billion for the privately owned US label. (Bugle Boy is no longer sold).

Converse All-Stars. Founded in 1908, by Marquis M. Converse, in Malden, Massachusetts.  First only creating/selling winterized footwear, Marquis Converse tried something new and created the "Converse canvas shoe" for tennis. Then during basketball's US beginnings Converse invented the "All-Star" high top basketball shoe. Charles H. "Chuck" Taylor, an all American high school player, played for the Original New York Celtics (no relations to the Boston, Celtics), Buffalo Germans, and Akron Firestones. In 1921 Chuck Taylor joined Converse and improved upon the All Stars for basketball players, he became America's first endorsed basketball player.  In 1923 Converse customized shoes for the New York Renaissance, the game's first all black pro basketball team. The "Rens" took the shoes to a whole new, unprecedented level of play (of course they did).  With a then unbeaten record of 2,588 wins to 539 losses, the New York Renaissance became basketball's most successful team of all time. The Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars are hands down one the most multi-functional  pair of shoes. Although used initially for basketball, all-stars can historically be seen on paperboy's, athletes of all types, and factory workers alike– making it an easy pick to include in the American Workwear trend.

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the New York Renaissance aka "Rens" Basketball Team

Ralph Lauren. Founded in 1967/1968 by Ralph Lauren (Lifschitz), in New York. In his early 20s Lauren attended school and worked at A.Rivetz & Co.. Originally a salesperson, he began designing ties for the company which inspired him to create his own line. So with his inspiration and designs, he acquired a $50,000 loan and started Polo Fashions in 1968. He began selling his men's line of ties to luxury retailers, starting with his own boutique within Bloomingdale's. 

Grandfather's closet. Born in 1938 in southern Georgia, USA. This is the gentleman on the classic Urban Gentleman logo (featured above at the opening of the page). Thanks for letting us rummage your closet granddaddy!

 

Kanayo King. Cindy Samoht.

Pocket Guide: Men’s Fall | Winter Trends 2010-2011

Okay, we have something more to hold you guys over until our, well, "surprise."
 

We've created a Mini Pocket Guide for Men's Fall|Winter 2010-2011 Trends and Styles. This covers a few basic fall & winter trends that all Urban Gentlemen should know…

 

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Crew necks: You may or may not have noticed the change, but designers are slowly switching back to the classic crew necks and moving away from the wide scoop necks and trendy v-necks. Of course you can still do a slight V if needed, but a classic crew will suit you, and all your masculinity, best.

Selvedge Denim: Everywhere I go, I find myself getting into "deep" conversations about selvedge denim… people are obsessed, some are a bit too passionate (usually the newbies), but it's understandable. Be sure to invest in atleast one pair of selvedge denim.


MINI Lesson on Selvedge Denim: "What is Selvedge/Selvage Denim?"
Selvedge denim is basically premium denim, its the crème de la crème of the denim family. "Selvedge" describes the way the fabric is produced. The denim is made on a shorter loom, making the time to create them longer. In a pair of selvedge jeans you can actually see where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom… long story short: if you flip a pair of selvedge jeans inside out you can see the production and "self-edged" finish. The quality is higher, the fabric is heavier and more durable, and more thread is used to create them. Some companies mark their jeans on the selvedge with a woven stitch in a certain color. Some even mark the inside selvedge line with their company's name.

What folks love most about selvedge denim is that you can "wear them in" yourself- so no fake wear marks (even though these days some companies will scuff em a bit). Within 6 months of wearing them the jeans will customized to your body… some will argue longer times, many people wear their's for a year without washing to "completely" break them in… honestly the "breaking in" time all depends on how often you wear them.

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Classic Boots: Whether it's vintage or workwear inspired, you must have a pair of quality classic boots. Some may go with duck boots, others may opt for chukkas, while the manliest will be keen on rugged utility boots. Choose your favorite brand and style in a color that fits your wardrobe and make it your staple. Or choose several to increase your fall and winter footwear options.

 

Hint Of Camo: You heard it here first. Just give em a hint of fatigue this fall and winter. Unless you're a solider, we need not see you in all over army fatigue… not yet anyway. Just a hint… a jacket, socks, a bag, whatever you like.

Canvas: Whether you sport a canvas backpack, watch, or jacket… its the chosen material for so many stylish things these days.

 

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Stay Tuned for the Complete Guide.

A Few Favorites: Fall/Winter 2010 Fashion Shows

Because of my crazy busy schedule I haven’t been able to give you guys my usual rundown of the shows from fashion week. So below I’ve covered a few of the past shows…

“All Hail McQueen”
The prints, the texture, the designs, the everything… Alexander McQueen gives us his usual uniquely dark point of view, this time he does it with intricate prints and textures. (may he rest in peace).
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“My Friend Brian”

Band of Outsiders always has such fun with their styles. Their Fall 2010 collection literally reminds me of my high school friend Brian. He was this really rich kid who exclusively shopped at thrift stores. With his finds he’d create the most random ensembles, but somehow they worked for him. You don’t know my friend Bri, so my style comparisons may not be resonating at the moment. Let’s just say that their collection is like the ivy style of an occasionally wild and laid-back frat boy.



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“A Smooth Bad Boy”
I’m SUCH a sucker for Bottega Veneta, secretly infatuated with most of their collections. For Fall 2010 they give us their usual perfect monochromatic inspired tones, but with a bad boy country edge. Lots of great pieces sprinkled throughout the collection, mainly in the first 1/3 (the last 1/3 lost me). I’m a little perturbed with some of the fashion show styling– like the heavily devilish pompadours, I would have preferred smaller ones, but that’s a minor issue. All in all they have enough great pieces to make BV one of my favorites for next winter.




view more of the collection here.
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“Overindulgent Snowboarder Dressing in the Dark”
I felt like D&G raided my friend Chinny’s closet, or atleast his hat collection. Layers upon layers upon layers of snow-gear, D&G’s motto for this collection had to be “go hard or go home”. Their excessiveness makes me ponder upon the future trends… we’ve been ruggedly simple for the past year or so. Is their abundance of clothing on the runway a sort of rebellion to the crucial downgrades of the economy? Or maybe, well, most likely, its just a response to the fact that humongous coats are for the birds, its all about layers, layers, and more layers boys. (With the world’s schizophrenic weather you have to be ready to take it off and put it on).


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Michael Bastian. It’s in the details… This is a great collection for those still swimming in the latest trends. A little preppy, a little edgy, lots of plaids, and Doc Martens galore.
Burberry Prosum. Doing what they do best, they give us the most thorough collection of jackets and coats. I’ll skip the extra verbiage and will simply say having atleast one of their jackets in your wardrobe is a must.
DKNY. My fashion alma mater can barely do wrong, lol. Versatility, as usual, is key with DKNY’s collection. In their usual hues of steel, charcoal, and blue the collection battles rugged and refined while always keeping its streetwise city style that can be worn by all.
Commonwealth Utilities. They gave us what we wanted. This is the collection to choose from if you’re a ridiculously handsome, manly, trendy yet conservative bloke.

Spurr

Other collections to check out next Fall and Winter: Michael Kors, Spurr, Victor Glemaud, Buckler, Tommy Hilfiger, G-Star, Loden Dager, and Trussardi 1911.

View all of the collections above plus more by going HERE.

*Check back soon for one of the anticipated Urban Gentleman Style and Trend Guides.

photos from NYMAG.

Spring | Summer 2010 Trend, Fashion, & Style Guide for Men

We've been holding on to this article since Feb 18th, sorry for the delay guys, 2010 has been crazy busy.

The task of creating this Spring/Summer 2010 was a bit more arduous than I had foreseen. When I initially began to outline this article in my moleksine I kept coming up short… nothing dramatically stood out, nothing new atleast, but then when I thought harder, just a little harder it became so clear. Check out..

The Urban Gentleman's Official
Spring Summer 2010
Trend, Fashion, and Style Guide

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90s Summer Camp

My standout show from the Spring/Summer 2010 shows was Dsqaured2. When glancing at their collection I could only think–, "Camp Anawanna we hold you in our heart and when we think about you, it makes me wanna…." Lol, only the 80's and early 90's babies will get that Nickelodeon reference. Dean and Dan's collection most favorably represents this spring. It's happy with the colors, yet masculine, and creative. It fits the current adventurous spirit many men are channeling this year.90s Summer Camp is all about embracing that enthusiasm and glee you had back at summer camp. Basically, you should be dressed and ready to go on almost any kind of adventure at a moment's notice– but just in 90s colored clothing and camping gear. Hi-top boats shoes and duck boots become staples. Paired with shorts and/or jeans, in every color and texture.

Get the Look: 90s looking graphic tees, rolled up shorts and jeans, well-fitting cargo shorts, hi-top boat shoes (or mid-top), duck boots, chukka boots/sneakers, boy scout or military shirts, 90s looking hats.

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Harem Nation

Remember when we first reported these pants… well the time is here. I saw a guy in harem pants yesterday and they actually looked pretty darn good. I saw one in them today and this guy wore them even better. Designers have gotten creative and are offering many different types of harem pants… maybe these are the new skinnys? Well, they probably aren't but as each month passes the amount of guys and gals wearing them seem to increase.This is the most avant-garde choice of all the spring/summer trends, if you dare to be different you should scoop atleast one pair.

Get the Look: Harem pants, slippers, blazers, t-shirts, low-top sneakers. With Harem pants its all about proportions and editing. The easiest way to seamlessly integrate harem pants into your wardrobe is to first create an ensemble using trousers the same color as the harem pants… this can be any ensemble: casual, dressy, preppy, rock, etc. Now take away the trousers and replace them with the harem pants. From here the harems will either flow nicely or the other items you have on will look a little off. If it is the latter, then look in the mirror and try on different jackets/sweaters, shirts, and shoes until you get a look that you like.

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American RockStar

We're back to our rockin' American roots. T-shirt and distressed jeans if you're the simple american rocker type– but I say nothing but ripped and/or distressed jeans in a variety of washes, random ass t-shirts, random ass hair styles, maybe a blazer, maybe some lace-ups or maybe some velvet slippers. Basically do whatever you want, but keep it classic hardcore rock.

Get the Look: T-shirts of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Distressed, ripped, torn, and/or slashed jeans. And anything/everything rock and roll!

www.theurbangent.com

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White Out
 
From stylish jackets to t-shirts to ripped jeans… everyone seems to be going completely white a bit more than usual. But not in the stereotypical linen and brogues kind of way, nah, the stylish gentlemen folk are whiting out in a scruffier, edgier, 'masculinely' polished type way… it's like there's some kind of unofficial "who can look the most fly in all white" contest going on.


Get the Look:
Wear white on white on white. Atleast 3 white items on at all times.

 

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Colorized

 

It's like we're refined 80s babies this year. We match it all, but in the most tasteful ways– sorta elegant, but mostly preppy.
 

Get the Look: Wear the same color all over, or almost all over. Then prep it out by going sockless, adding a cardigan, maybe opting for a polo instead of a v-neck. If your 'color on color' is too much then break it up by adding a article of clothing or accessory that is white or complimentary to your base color.

The Urban Gentleman
 

Other Spring Summer 2010 Trends:

Colors: Orange, shades of blue, white, plaids
Accessories: colored sunglasses, buttons, colorful boat shoes, boots, bookbags, sew-on patches.
 

1. Summer layers- wearing a little, but alot of it (ie. tank, loose tee, a jean jacket)
2. Booted Up- this spring and summer is all about finding ways to integrate boots into your spring wardrobe. Hi-top boat shoes are easy for most guys, but integrating chukkas and desert boots may be a bit more challenging for some, buuuut if you can do it, if you can pull it off, well, you win ;-)
3. Shorts (usually cargo) over thermals, skinny jeans, even leggings
4. Subtle military shirts- we're not going into full combat anymore, keep your military flares a bit more discreet unless the occasion calls for full decoration.
5. Printed slippers (ie. monogrammed velvet slippers)
6. Denim shirts
7. Sockless
8. Summer rolls– rolling up pants and shorts and sleeves and and and, lol… nah, just kiddin'.

Must-Haves for the Spring and Summer:

- jean jacket
- high-top/mid-top boat shoes and/or desert boots
- bright colored hat
- pair of colorful sunglasses
- jean shirt
- clear pair of glasses
- slim-fit jeans
- white shorts, jeans, or trousers
- blazer
- a favorite plaid shirt
- harem pants/shorts (if you're bold enough)

 

 

More Spring/Summer Trends
Inspiration photos:

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(Designers above: G-Star Raw, D-Sqaured, Gucci, Martin Margiela, John Richmond, Lacoste, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Costume National, Salvatore Ferragamo).

Photos from: NYMAG.com
The Urban Gentleman

Stayed tuned for How to Get the Look for each trend &
the Urban Gentleman Spring Summer Trends photo shoot.

Denim Focused, Get the Look: David Beckham & the Denim Shirt

Fall 2008 H&M ad, featured in our 08′ Button It Up post

As mentioned in the latest trend report, Sir David Beckham is really putting the basic denim shirt back on the map. Though the reincarnation of this trend “officially” launched in Fall 2008, we’re just now (Fall/Winter 2009/2010) seeing the trendy rise of denim button-ups and “double denim” looks on stylish celebrities and urban gentlemen. Everyone may not be able to pull off double-denim looks (jean shirt + jean pants), but it’s easy to pair a denim shirt with khakis or black flat-front soft corduroy trousers.

If you don’t already have one, be sure to add atleast one denim shirt to your winter wardrobe.

David Beckham at a Lakers vs Clippers game
wearing a Blue Bell by Wrangler Clay denim shirt
($140- $186, vintage inspired from the FW 2009 collection).


David Beckham at LAX airport
He paired his denim shirt with Dior Homme cords,
and a Louis Vuitton Keepall 55 w/the strap ($2,190)

Get a denim shirt exactly like David Bekcham here:
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Similar Beckham travel bags and beanies:
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Trend Report: 12/18/2009

 Timberland Premium 6-inch Boots

This is your official public service announcement of the latest trends. If you’re a regular here at The Urban Gentleman, then you may already know most of these.

As of Friday December 18, 2009:

1. It seems as if summer rolls, can now be called winter cuffs. Cold weather has not deterred those ecstatically dedicated to rolling up their pants. As predicted matching socks warms those cold ankles, the traditional gents stick to their navys, browns, and argyle, while those less than so are opting for patterns and bright happy colors.
2. Denim jackets have made their comeback, but thanks to gents like David Beckham many are choosing to skip the jackets and are opting for denim shirts instead.
3. The stylishly advanced have been wearing plaid shirts for well over a year, and quite frankly, are ready to move on. But the stylishly regular are not ready to let go, but I for one understand– it does look good on them. People need patterns during these not as happy, recession times, so you can expect to see plaid or variations of the plaid for a bit longer.
4. Though with northerners Timbs (aka Timberlands) never went out of vogue, the rest of the world looked at other options in bootwear over these past few years. Well, Timbs (the classic 6-in) are back– for everyone this winter… and with the way certain trends are moving we may be able to expect them to be worn (someway somehow) throughout the spring along with high-top boat shoes.
more trends to come..
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